Ann Kraemer: An Artist in the Vineyard in Amador County

Talk to any winemaker, and he or she will tell you that wine is made in the vineyard.  Some will say that 80% or more of what you taste in the bottle is actually crafted in the vineyard.  There is much work involved in having the grapes ready to be picked, and many factors influence the quality of the crop itself.  Imagine the attention that must be given to such things as cover crops, the orientation of the vines to sunlight, the time on the vine, water, the weight of the canopy, the distance between the rows, the number and quality of the grape clusters, and on and on.  Much goes into the individual management of the vines and vineyard.  It’s in the vineyard where the science and artistry of great wine begins.  And it’s in her Shake Ridge vineyard in Amador County where you’ll find Ann Kraemer.

Personally, Amador County (just east of Sacramento) had not been much of a draw for me.  I had tasted a few of the offerings from wineries in the foothills and had not been impressed – that is until I found the wines of winemaker Helen Keplinger.  These were beautiful Rhone varietals that were smooth, rich, and deep with flavor.  Wow, and she used grapes from Amador County!  This was impressive.  Next, I found beautiful wines from Favia.  This was a wonderful Syrah with great complexity and balance made by Andy Erickson and Anne Favia. Oh my, again — Amador County grapes!  Then, I tasted the new Grenache-based wine of one of my favorite winemakers, Rosemary Cakebread.  Low and behold again — Amador County grapes.  All of these wines were made in Napa, yet the grapes came from one place – Shake Ridge in Amador County.

What makes Shake Ridge such a standout?  Well, obviously, there are good soils, elevation, the right climate, updrafts, minerality, and other factors that constitute the terroir that is distinctive of the vineyard.  But the constant and distinguishing factor is the vineyard manager – the artist of the vines.  That is Ann Kraemer.  She is the one who oversees the vineyard and works closely with the winemakers who want her grapes, and she orchestrates the whole process.

Here’s how Helen Keplinger describes Ann’s work in the vineyard: “Ann Kraemer practices sustainable farming to perfection with a crew largely comprised of family and extended family. Her grapes are just flawless.”

This past week, I had the pleasure of meeting Ann and tasting her wines at Downtown and Vine in Sacramento.  First and foremost, she is delightful.  Her passion for wine and the work that needs to be done to bring in the harvest is apparent.  It is obvious that she loves what she does, and that shows both in her vineyard and in her own wines, which are marketed under the label of Yorba.  That night we tasted through four wines, and I walked away purchasing the tempranillo and her red blend.  These are well-crafted wines that are well-aged and a great value.  You can learn more about Shake Ridge and purchase Ann’s wines at Yorba Wines.

Enjoy!