DuMOL: The Evolution of Outstanding Pinot Noir and Chardonnay
DuMOL Harvest 2023
DuMOL is a Sonoma County winery that has evolved since its inception in 1996. And that is truly a progression that rewards you and me as enjoyers of wine. The original owners named the winery using an amalgamation of the names of their children (Duncan and Molly). The wines at that time were made from grapes bought from Dutton Ranch in Sebastopol, CA. In 1999, Andy Smith joined DuMOL as their winemaker/viticulturist. In 2005, Andy became part owner of the winery; and, in 2015, he and an associate bought full ownership of the winery. The results today are remarkable.
Andy Smith is the principal who has truly set things in motion. He was born in Scotland and journeyed “down under” to New Zealand and Australia to learn and grow his winemaking skills before coming to the United States in 1995. He spent time at Littorai Wines and Paul Hobbs Winery, as his skills expanded to include the wines of Sonoma County, California. He is the driving force for the quality and expression of the wines from DuMOL. The winery now owns vineyards, in addition to buying grapes that have been carefully chosen. He is very clear that, without great vineyards, you cannot make great wine.
My visit to DuMOL was a great pleasure. It was in the heat of harvest with grapes coming in from the vineyard to be sorted and destemmed. Then, off they go to tanks for crush and fermentation. The pictures you see here include interns from Italy and Spain at the sorting table to enhance their knowledge of making fine wine. It is a fast-paced process yet done with diligence and care. I was excited to see the beginning of the process taking place.
The winery itself is situated in a more industrial location. This is a tasting focused on the wine and the process, not the surrounding views. That truly makes the wine the central focus. I took the opportunity to enjoy the lovely Chardonnays. The standout for me was the Charles Heintz Vineyard Isobel. It was rich and creamy without being over-oaked. The wine was lush with green apple and hints of pineapple. A beautiful expression of the varietal.
The Pinots from DuMOL are some of the best I have tasted this year. I am amazed at the density without heaviness. The fresh fruit that sings through the wine will age and develop more nuances. There is no need to do anything yet savor the beauty in the glass. DuMOL makes Pinot Noir from many different sites. There is great consensus from the wine critics about the high quality of wines from DuMOL, the 2021 vintage in particular. Here is an excerpt from Vinous by Antonio Galloni:
It is amazing to see the degree of regard for the 2021s from DuMOL. I could share the perspective of other critics, yet I think the point is clear. 2021 is a great vintage from this winery, and it is time to find some for yourself. The choice is not only Chardonnay or Pinot Noir. They also craft fine Cabernet and Syrah. Access the website here.
Enjoy!!
