Older Wines Need to be Laid Down…
My mother told me that if you can’t say something nice, say nothing at all. I usually abide by that statement and yet sometimes… I was in a wine store the other day (imagine that) and was picking up a prize for a wine tasting party. I could not help myself – I had to browse the aisles and see what gems there might be on the shelf. I was a bit disturbed to see some older wines standing up. An example was a 2006 wine called La Serena Syrah – there were nine bottles, all standing at attention. The challenge for you, the consumer, is not knowing where and how these bottles were held for the last six years (many wines are not released from the winery until about two years after the harvest year). This wine costs about $60 and should be resting on its side to reach you and your glass in the best possible condition.
Why is that? Oxygen is a key ingredient in a wine’s evolution. Just a little, and the chemical reactions proceed at a pace that allows the wine to really show itself and evolve. Too much too quickly, and the wine will become oxidized and will not be at its best for you. The “governor” for that rate of oxygen exchange is the cork. Corks are actually rated by the amount of oxygen they let in – formally called the OTR (Oxygen Transmission Rate). In order to provide the best seal for your wine, the cork needs to stay moist. That is the reason your wine should be stored on its side at your home or in the store. Now the store would be okay standing these bottles up, if they allow the cork to be moistened by laying down the bottles once a week. (I know this sounds bad, but it is accurate.) I doubt that in this store – to remain nameless – that it is going to happen.
Why do I care? At this time in the holiday season, you may be looking for that special wine for a friend or loved one. It would be attractive to pick up a well-aged wine for enjoyment right now. If you’re picking up an older bottle, it’s good to know how that bottle was stored; and, if it’s on the shelf standing up, be cautious. If it came to the store from the winery last week, well that is great. Many wineries do maintain libraries and sell them off to retailers from time to time. If the retailer cannot tell you where it has been, make sure you can return that bottle if it is less than expected.
What about young wines? They can take a short time standing up and be just fine. California wineries are shipping out 2011s and 2012s. Those should be just fine, even if you find them standing up at the store. Again, a young wine will deal well with a short time in an upright position. I am only suggesting you be cautious buying older wines standing on the shelf. Remember too, I am only talking about wines with a cork. In today’s market, you will find screw caps on some wines. The OTR is less, and some wineries are experimenting with these closures. They are fine for wines that are intended to be drunk young, yet the jury is still out on whether they are the closure of choice for wines that are intended to be aged.
It’s the Holiday Season, enjoy family and friends and share some wine!
Enjoy!