A Visit to Jericho Canyon in Calistoga
I was first introduced to Jericho Canyon Vineyard many years ago when another winemaker bought grapes from this area to make Ramey Jericho Canyon. That was a big, muscular cabernet with structure, loamy tannins, and deep rich fruit which would cellar for a long time. My recent visit was an opportunity to rediscover Jericho Canyon Vineyards and taste the wine that the owners of Jericho Canyon now make and bottle under their own name. The wines still have those same great qualities and characteristics that I remember.
Jericho Canyon Vineyard is family owned, and the owners take great pride in honoring the land as they craft their wines. The founders and proprietors are Marla and Dale Bleecher. The property is sustainably farmed and certified Napa Green Land and Winery. It is nestled between the Palisades and Mt. St. Helena off of highway 128 in Calistoga. The vineyards sit at elevations between 200 and 1000 feet, and there are 40 acres under vine.
Two More Stops in Santa Barbara
Wineries of the middle and southern Central Coast of California are mostly casual visits and offer a very down to earth experience. Many are small family operations with simple tasting rooms. This may well be attributable to the late development of wineries in the area. It was not until the 1980s that viticulture took off here. In 1970, there were only 171 acres of grapes in Santa Barbara County. By 1998, there were 16,500 acres generating great revenue.
Last week, I talked about our visit to Jonata. During our day of wine tasting, we also visited Stolpman Vineyards and Beckmen Vineyards. Both are examples of family wineries making a mark in the Santa Barbara area.
A Visit to Santa Barbara and a Stop at Jonata Wines
How many of you saw the movie Sideways? It was the movie that literally spurred sales of Pinot Noir and seriously dampened the sales and tarnished the reputation of Merlot. It was filmed in the wine region of Santa Barbara. For those who recall, it really did have an impact on the region and the sale of these two varietals. Having had many great Merlots, I don’t share the sentiments expressed about Merlot in the movie, but Sideways is a fun flick.
Santa Barbara is an area located on California’s Central Coast, and it is beautiful. It is two hours north of Los Angeles. It has a local airport, and you can fly in without a long drive. The coast here runs generally east to west, contributing to smaller microclimates where different varietals flourish. In the northern region, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir prosper, as it is a more maritime climate. In the southern region, you travel easterly, and this produces hotter days and cooler nights. Bordeaux and Rhone varietals flourish in the more extreme climate. The benefit of this region is that you can explore many grape varieties without leaving one area.
A Final Pass through Paso
If you ever get to Paso Robles, you must visit the tasting room of Brian Benson. Again, being in Paso, the star here is Rhone Varietals. The wines are deep, rich and intense. Brian is the owner and winemaker at Brian Benson. He started making wine with his father at a very young age. He worked part time on the weekends learning the craft; and, at the age of 12, made his first wine. Back then, his first wine was a Cabernet. He became the full time assistant winemaker for his father at Dark Star Cellars in 2000. At the age of 19, he started making his own wines with an initial investment of less than $2000. His success has only grown from there.
Paso Pleasures
Spending a weekend in Paso Robles can be quite rewarding. The downtown is quaint and has very fine restaurants. The hotel where we stayed, the Hotel Cheval, is wonderful. One block off the square with excellent accommodations, you can rest and recoup from a long day of wine tasting.
One notable difference in this area is the set up of the wine tastings. This is a young and growing area, so the emphasis on wine education during the tastings is in its infancy, as contrasted with Napa. The heart of what you get in Paso is good wine that is well-priced and a very relaxed atmosphere. You do not have caves and the established wine tours that are available in Napa Valley; yet the low-key, relaxed approach is really quite enjoyable.
Don’t Pass by Paso…
Paso Robles is a quaint town situated off the central coast of California. There are now hundreds of wineries in this region putting out some very well-structured, quality Rhone varietals. There are delicious reds and whites that make a trip to this town very worthwhile.
Vineyard 29 at 2929 Highway 29: Unforgettable!
The sign says simply 2929. You would pass right by the entrance to this beautiful winery on Highway 29 north of St. Helena. There is no advertisement of what lies up the hill. Vineyard 29 has a quiet, stately elegance from your first approach to the massive double doors that open to a remarkably modern and techno savvy operation. This is a “By Appointment Only” winery where you need to book well in advance to enjoy the tour and tasting, yet it’s well worth the planning.
On your visit, you are welcomed into the winery through massive double doors. Up the stairs to the right is the office and a balcony where you begin your exploration of the impressive operation. From the balcony, you take in views of the valley floor with vineyards all around. Austin Gallion is in charge of hospitality, and he will lead you on a tour of the winery, talking about its beginnings and bringing you up to today’s operation — sipping great wine all the time, of course.
Outpost Wines: A Real Gem
There are many wineries that stand out for their wine, and Outpost is one of them. This winery crafts wonderful wine from high atop Howell Mountain. Outpost sits 2200 feet above the Napa Valley floor. The vineyards surround the property, and you can readily see many of them from one of the tasting rooms during your visit.
What’s relevant about the altitude? There are many who say that mountain fruit produces deep and concentrated flavors in a wine. There are attributes associated with altitude that contribute to this, such as heat during the day, cooling at night, exposure to more direct sunlight, and access to water. One thing that all will agree on is temperature. The higher you go, the cooler it gets. That translates to potentially longer hang time for the grapes on the vine, which benefits ripeness and flavor. The mountains also tend to have soils that drain more rapidly, and that contributes to the vines having to struggle to get water. This puts stress on the vine. What that means is that the vines put a lot of energy into the grapes, resulting in mountain fruit having thicker skin, smaller berries, and, many believe, a greater concentration of flavors.
Qué Paso!?
California wines have a huge following (as they should); and, while Napa has the biggest reputation, there is another area of note. That is California’s Central Coast. There are some very beautiful wines coming out of this region, and it is especially worthy of a visit. We visited the area with dear friends a while ago and had a wonderful time.
Specifically, we visited Paso Robles and stayed at the Hotel Cheval. This is a quiet town with excellent food and a quaint town square. Our experience was refreshing and relaxing. The hotel itself was small, and the well-appointed rooms surrounded a peaceful courtyard. Chairs were set in the courtyard in front of fireplaces, and there was a nightly S’mores service. Yes – a young gentleman would come around with a cart, and you could order your flavor of marshmallow with a specific chocolate. Yum, and I am admitting right here that I sat back and let him make a S’more for me!
Consider a Visit to Del Dotto on Your Next Visit to Napa!
Napa is filled with great wineries and great tasting experiences. Where to visit is really a question that is best answered by what type of experience you would like to have. There are over 400 wineries in the valley, and each offers something different to tantalize your palate and your mind.
Del Dotto is one of those fun and informational tours that I recommend to most folks who have the opportunity to visit the valley. There are two wine caves to choose from, and both offer tours of their caves where you taste from barrels along the way. The original location is in Napa in the south end of the valley. It’s been a few years since I’ve visited that location, but I’m sure you would not be disappointed. My most recent tours have been in the newer location in St. Helena. Del Dotto tours and tastings are by appointment only, and the cost is $50 per person. Trust me — You will definitely get your money’s worth!