Mending Wall: The New Kid on the Trail
“Mending Wall” is a poem by the twentieth century American poet Robert Frost (1874-1963). The poem is about two men who mend the fence that separates their properties, yet it brings them together. This is part of the inspiration for the Mending Wall, a new winery located on the Silverado Trail in Napa Valley. Wine is that wonderful beverage that brings people together, and the Mending Wall is the vision of three families who come together in an endeavor to make wine of great quality and flavor. There are excellent beginnings here on the Trail, since this is an endeavor of talented vintners and a highly-regarded winemaker.
None of those involved is new to the winemaking business, but this is a new beginning to “press the boundaries” in an effort to produce the best expression of the grape. At Mending Wall, Frank & Kathy Dotzler (of Outpost Winery and Vineyard) and Donna Walker & Mark Pulido (of Pulido-Walker) come together with winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown to craft a new set of quality wines. They are off and running!
Gandona Winery: Scenic Views and Lovely Wine
Pritchard Hill is a special place within Napa Valley. Some have called it the “Rodeo Drive” of the wine country. Why is that? It starts with the soil, which is compacted volcanic rock. This plot of land sits on the eastern ridge of central Napa Valley and rises to heights of 1800 feet overlooking Lake Hennessey. The region produces mountain fruit that leads to profoundly deep, flavorful wines that are rich and polished. Located here are some fine wineries, and this includes Gandona Winery.
Gandona is the vision of Manuel Pires, a driven vintner dedicated to producing world class wine. He bought this property and delivered his first estate wine in 2010, enlisting the support of talented, world class individuals to bring his vision to life. The winemaker at Gandona is Phillipe Melka and managing the vineyard is Jim Barbour. These are highly talented and sought after partners in the valley. This represents the commitment that Manuel brings to the quality of his wine.
Favia: A Perfect Blend
Favia Wines is a marriage that sings beautifully. This winery is the work of husband and wife team Andy Erickson and Annie Favia, and it is a pairing that works extremely well.
Just recently, I had the chance to visit and taste the current releases from Favia. I had discovered their wine back with the 2006 vintage. My first introduction was the Cerro Sur Red Wine. This is a blend of predominately Cab Franc and Cabernet. (The Cerro Sur is a blend – for a wine to be characterized as a certain varietal, it must contain at least 75% of that grape.) I am a big fan of Cab Franc, and this one was done splendidly. I was hooked.
Decanting to Add Enjoyment
There are two very good reasons to decant wine. The first relates to aged wines, and the second is about aeration.
Let’s start with aged wines. Wines with some years “under their belt” age and evolve. Part of that evolution may be the formation or evidence of sediment in the wine. This is not desirable to taste or drink – therefore decanting is the best approach. Decanting the wine will allow the sediment to sink to the bottom, and the pleasure of the wine will be at its fullest.
The second reason is actually about aeration. Just recently, I was in a class and heard some interesting facts. One – that 90% of all wines purchased are consumed within the first year. Two – the next 9% are consumed within 5 years. That is not a lot of aging time for a wine. Many wines require some time in bottle to truly show their best “stuff.” So if only 10% of wine is truly laid down to age gracefully for at least some time, then what is a person to do? That is where a decanter can be a really good friend. It will allow your wine to “open up” and provide greater accessibility to the aromas and flavors. Aeration will enhance your wine experience and make it more accessible for your enjoyment.
World Malbec Day
Last Friday, April 17th, was World Malbec Day. It was the fifth year of this recognition that was instituted in Argentina to celebrate and bring recognition to this varietal. The grape was first grown in the Southwest of France and brought to Argentina in1853. In this new environment, the varietal grew and flourished and has become the flagship varietal of the country. The celebration this year was marked by more than 70 events in 64 cities in 44 different countries around the world. That is a big deal for a grape!
What makes and has Malbec be so distinctive and attract such attention? At its best, Malbec has a dark purple color with plum and violet aromas. On the palate, you have lush, rich fruit with a ripe tannic structure. Typical of the varietal are flavors of plum, raisin, and hints of tobacco.
Through the Eyes of the Winemaker: Rosemary Cakebread
Recently, I had the opportunity to sit down with Rosemary Cakebread, winemaker and owner of Gallica Wine. This was a chance to gain insights into the “drivers,” the perspective and spirit, of a great winemaker. Rosemary holds a degree in Viticulture and Enology from the University of California at Davis and has put her education to work for over 30 vintages in Napa Valley. Her background is rich and varied, from a harvest in Bordeaux to working with sparkling wine at Mumm Napa Valley. She was the winemaker at Spottswoode, one of the iconic wineries of Napa Valley. Rosemary led the winemaking effort at Spottswoode from 1997 until 2007 and consulted through the 2012 vintage.
In 2007, Rosemary launched her own label. Gallica 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon was introduced to the wine buying public in 2010, and it was a stunner. The very first vintage of her wine was well-received, to say the least. Robert Parker gave it 99 points, truly a great beginning. While Cabernet is a varietal Rosemary is very familiar with, in more recent vintages, she has explored other wines. I have enjoyed her Grenache blend called Suzuri; and, with the 2012 vintage, she released a Syrah.
A Tasting to Be Remembered
Recently, I had the opportunity to attend a tasting that was pricey but well worth the time and money. It was in St. Helena at the wine store located in Dean & DeLuca’s. Being in the heart of the Napa Valley, there are many gems that are worthy of note. This tasting opportunity arrived, and I jumped at it.
Here is the line-up of wines that I was given the chance to taste:
Moderately Priced Wines from Australia — “Two Hands” and “Mollydooker”
Last week, I was on the road and tried very much to be satisfied with the wine offered in the hotel. I was out for five days in Philadelphia, and I could take it for only so long. I had enjoyed a good bottle with a dear friend at dinner one night, yet found myself longing for a richer and deeper expression of the grape. I found the wine store and set my sights on Shiraz. I do so knowing that an Aussie wine will be a big, lush and very approachable. I shy away from young cabernets, since they do need some time to unfold.
Wineries Galore!
Once upon a time, a long time ago, the wine industry was concentrated on the West Coast. But, just the other day, I read an article that simply amazed me with some facts. First, there is a working winery in every state in the United States. Yes, there is a winery in Alaska and Hawaii. While I have never visited our Alaskan friends, I have tasted wine at the one in Hawaii. It is on the Island of Maui and named Tedeschi. While not the most complex wine I have tasted, it was a fun visit.
Mi Sueño — My Dream
While Napa Valley has grown, there is still an interesting fact that remains true: 95% of Napa Valley wineries are family-owned. This is an amazing fact when considering that the number of wineries in the valley is over 400. In an even smaller number of wineries, the owner and winemaker are one and the same. Such is true for Mi Sueño: Rolando Herrera is both proprietor and winemaker.
I first drank Rolando’s wine when visiting Vintner’s Collective – a small boutique tasting room in the heart of the city of Napa. It is here where I was impressed with the richness, lushness, and balance of his big cabernets. The cabernet, though, is only one of the excellent wines that Rolando crafts. The line-up of Mi Sueño includes Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. All are well-structured and a pleasure to drink.